Rabu, 21 Ogos 2013
August 21, 2013 New Project
Updated September 16th- Final Update
Scroll down for the Updates
My large removable section turned out so good I have decided to overhaul another section. This is a before picture of the existing module of the local Southern Pacific Superintendent's house and swimming pool.
I plan on using another scratch built Sears Catalog Home for the Superintendent's house and give the Walthers Cornerstone houses to my Grandson. I also need to either redo the pool or make a new one, the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water shrunk and it has lost over 50% of it's depth since December 2009. I'll try to patch the pool first, the Realistic Water is self-healing. I'm also going to reduce the quantity of figures at the pool party.
This picture shows the large module in place and the Mel's Destruction Crew damage where the new project will go. I will build a new frame for the project from a combination of plywood and pine boards. The new module will be much larger than the existing one as well as removable.
This completes this post on the construction of the frame and rock cut for the lower loop of my helix. The next series of posts will be the construction of the Yard Super's house and swimming pool.
Read More..
Scroll down for the Updates
My large removable section turned out so good I have decided to overhaul another section. This is a before picture of the existing module of the local Southern Pacific Superintendent's house and swimming pool.
I plan on using another scratch built Sears Catalog Home for the Superintendent's house and give the Walthers Cornerstone houses to my Grandson. I also need to either redo the pool or make a new one, the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water shrunk and it has lost over 50% of it's depth since December 2009. I'll try to patch the pool first, the Realistic Water is self-healing. I'm also going to reduce the quantity of figures at the pool party.
This picture shows the large module in place and the Mel's Destruction Crew damage where the new project will go. I will build a new frame for the project from a combination of plywood and pine boards. The new module will be much larger than the existing one as well as removable.
This is a picture showing the additional work needed to fill in the seam around the large section. After the new project is finished I'll replace the rock frontage along the track to match the existing layout rocks and blend all the seams.
In the past I've always used Plaster of Paris for my rock castings. I have been very happy with the results using Woodland Scenics Liquid Pigments to stain the rocks. Over the years the Plaster of Paris has cracked from heat related expansion and contraction. As I remodel this section I'm going to use Hydrocal for it's higher strength. This will be a new experience as it will be my first time using Hydrocal.
August 30 Update
The picture above is my basic frame for the Super's House and Swimming Pool. I used �" OSB for the basic support structure. I used Elmer's Carpenter Glue with # 8 x 1�" wood screws for the construction.
In the past I've always used Plaster of Paris for my rock castings. I have been very happy with the results using Woodland Scenics Liquid Pigments to stain the rocks. Over the years the Plaster of Paris has cracked from heat related expansion and contraction. As I remodel this section I'm going to use Hydrocal for it's higher strength. This will be a new experience as it will be my first time using Hydrocal.
August 30 Update
The picture above is my basic frame for the Super's House and Swimming Pool. I used �" OSB for the basic support structure. I used Elmer's Carpenter Glue with # 8 x 1�" wood screws for the construction.
The picture above shows the completed frame in place, I will build the Super's house and pool on a like piece of curved OSB so that it is easily removeable.
This is my first attempt at casting with Hydrocal. If you haven't used Hydrocal make sure you follow the manufacturers mixing instructions, that's very important!.
As you can see the rocks turned out perfect.
This is my first attempt at casting with Hydrocal. If you haven't used Hydrocal make sure you follow the manufacturers mixing instructions, that's very important!.
As you can see the rocks turned out perfect.
This picture shows the fine detail of this casting. I used a Woodland Scenics Strata Stone #C1239 Rock Mold for this casting. I'm going to alternate between Strata Stone #1239, Base Rock #C1243 and Facet Rock #1241 to make the Sheer Rock Cut along my track between tunnels. The total length of the cut is 82" between tunnels on a 32" radius. The cut varies between 4" to 7" in height, my estimate is roughly 20 rock castings cut and flip flopped to hide the similarity of using only 3 rock molds.
September 7th Update
This is the finished frame, here it's ready for the rock castings.
Because this is my first attempt at using Hydrocal as mortar things are going slowly. Here I have two rows two castings high.
September 7th Update
This is the finished frame, here it's ready for the rock castings.
Because this is my first attempt at using Hydrocal as mortar things are going slowly. Here I have two rows two castings high.
Despite the Hydrocal learning curve it's going rather good, this is the end of day two. In this picture there are two rows of 6 castings. I used a small plastic butter cup (visible under the frame) to mix the Hydrocal mortar in small batches. After the Hydrocal has fully dried I'll cut the right end flush with the frame.
I will add at this point that carving Hydrocal isn't easy after it's dry. There is a short window of about 5 minutes after the mortar is applied to carve a rock look into the mortar so using very small batches works the best.
When the rocks are fully dry they will be ready for staining, while I'm waiting for the Hydrocal to dry I'm going to work on the top edge of the frame, I'm going to use Paper Mache to fill between the Hydrocal and the removable module that will sit on top of the frame.
September 16th Update
This Update is the last Post of my Frame Project Series. The the following pictures show the completion of the frame and rock assembly that will hold my swimming pool module.
The Hydrocal rock castings are finished and "glued in place with Hydrocal" on the frame.
The picture above shows the finished rock castings and the Hydrocal touch up above and below the castings ready for staining. I have placed the swimming pool module base on top of the frame and used plastic Saran Wrap to prevent the matching Paper Mache from sticking to the rock castings.
I will add at this point that carving Hydrocal isn't easy after it's dry. There is a short window of about 5 minutes after the mortar is applied to carve a rock look into the mortar so using very small batches works the best.
When the rocks are fully dry they will be ready for staining, while I'm waiting for the Hydrocal to dry I'm going to work on the top edge of the frame, I'm going to use Paper Mache to fill between the Hydrocal and the removable module that will sit on top of the frame.
September 16th Update
This Update is the last Post of my Frame Project Series. The the following pictures show the completion of the frame and rock assembly that will hold my swimming pool module.
The Hydrocal rock castings are finished and "glued in place with Hydrocal" on the frame.
The picture above shows the finished rock castings and the Hydrocal touch up above and below the castings ready for staining. I have placed the swimming pool module base on top of the frame and used plastic Saran Wrap to prevent the matching Paper Mache from sticking to the rock castings.
This picture shows the rock castings stained and in place on my layout. It will still take quite a bit of finishing work to mate the new rocks to my layout.
This completes this post on the construction of the frame and rock cut for the lower loop of my helix. The next series of posts will be the construction of the Yard Super's house and swimming pool.
Khamis, 15 Ogos 2013
Agust 20, 2013 Removable Section VII - Finished
This Post is about my finished 2' x 4' removable section. It has taken 2� months of off and on work to completely remodel this module. I removed the section and brought it into my hobby room where I could do the remodel at my workbench in my comfortable roll-around chair. Leaning over my layout for extended lengths of time is very hard on my 76 year old back.
This picture is the completed module on my workbench without the tall pines.
I will insert the tall trees after the module is in place and I have filled in the seams.
All of the houses have been replace with scratch built homes and I have applied new scenery flocking. I added spotty grass clumps using Woodland Scenics Medium Green Course Turf #T1364. I also added some bushes using a combination of Woodland Scenics Lichen Light Green #162, Medium Green #163 & Dark Green #164.
I added more details too, the picture above is my Retired Miners place with his tools and tractor. He is sitting comfortably in his captains chair having a cup of hot chocolate on a cool afternoon.
The Model A is a Jordan Highway Miniatures Kit and the Mailster is a JL Innovative Design Cushman Truckster Kit that I morphed into a USPS Mailster from pictures on the Internet. The Mailster has a single operating 1� volt 1mm diameter headlight.
The above picture shows the miner's son having a chat with their Mailman delivering the Mail in his 1952 Mailster. The Miner's son was on the way to town driving his father's 1928 Model A Ford Pickup.
I used Woodland Scenics Medium Green Foliage Clusters #CF58 as bushes near the houses as shrubbery.
This is a scratch built Sears Catalog Home 164B110, to the right you can see the power lines from the power pole to the house.
This view shows the electric meter and fuse panel, I made the meter assembly from Evergreen Scale Models Strip Styrene.
Here we see a young lady checking the mailbox for mail.
The mailboxes are also made from Evergreen Styrene Strips.
The 1949 Hudson Pacemaker is in memory of an old high school buddy, Danny was a diehard Hudson guy.
I was a T Bird guy, I bought a used 55 T Bird for myself in the late 50s. Both the T Bird and Hudson are Alloy Forms Kits.
The lower level has 10 Woodland Scenics #TR1105 4" to 6" Pines and 1 #TR1106 8" Pine Tree with Conifer Green Foliage. Trees are not my forte, after several long hours I came up with two fairly good looking oak trees using Woodland Scenics Deciduous Armatures to put in front of my scratch built 3301 house.
The fence posts are home brew castings and the fence rails are Midwest Scale Lumber strips. The 1940 Ford is another buddy's car from high school days, Clyde and my cousin Ray owned a 1953 Buick Skylark.
The 40 Ford is a Jordan Highway Miniatures Kit, the Buick is an Alloy Forms Kit.
The upper level will have 46 of the Woodland Scenics 6" to 8" TR1006 Pines. I have pre-installed all of the tree bases and will simply plug the tall trees in their bases after I have reinstalled the section on my layout. It will require quite a bit of scenery blending on all four sides and the tall trees would be in the way, another good reason for making trees removable.
This has been a very satisfying project. I knew it would take a lot of time and sometimes hard work to repair my damaged module but it was worth every minute it took. I dreaded doing it for several years but now it looks great.
Read More..
This picture is the completed module on my workbench without the tall pines.
I will insert the tall trees after the module is in place and I have filled in the seams.
All of the houses have been replace with scratch built homes and I have applied new scenery flocking. I added spotty grass clumps using Woodland Scenics Medium Green Course Turf #T1364. I also added some bushes using a combination of Woodland Scenics Lichen Light Green #162, Medium Green #163 & Dark Green #164.
I added more details too, the picture above is my Retired Miners place with his tools and tractor. He is sitting comfortably in his captains chair having a cup of hot chocolate on a cool afternoon.
The Model A is a Jordan Highway Miniatures Kit and the Mailster is a JL Innovative Design Cushman Truckster Kit that I morphed into a USPS Mailster from pictures on the Internet. The Mailster has a single operating 1� volt 1mm diameter headlight.
The above picture shows the miner's son having a chat with their Mailman delivering the Mail in his 1952 Mailster. The Miner's son was on the way to town driving his father's 1928 Model A Ford Pickup.
I used Woodland Scenics Medium Green Foliage Clusters #CF58 as bushes near the houses as shrubbery.
This is a scratch built Sears Catalog Home 164B110, to the right you can see the power lines from the power pole to the house.
This view shows the electric meter and fuse panel, I made the meter assembly from Evergreen Scale Models Strip Styrene.
Here we see a young lady checking the mailbox for mail.
The mailboxes are also made from Evergreen Styrene Strips.
The 1949 Hudson Pacemaker is in memory of an old high school buddy, Danny was a diehard Hudson guy.
I was a T Bird guy, I bought a used 55 T Bird for myself in the late 50s. Both the T Bird and Hudson are Alloy Forms Kits.
The lower level has 10 Woodland Scenics #TR1105 4" to 6" Pines and 1 #TR1106 8" Pine Tree with Conifer Green Foliage. Trees are not my forte, after several long hours I came up with two fairly good looking oak trees using Woodland Scenics Deciduous Armatures to put in front of my scratch built 3301 house.
The fence posts are home brew castings and the fence rails are Midwest Scale Lumber strips. The 1940 Ford is another buddy's car from high school days, Clyde and my cousin Ray owned a 1953 Buick Skylark.
The 40 Ford is a Jordan Highway Miniatures Kit, the Buick is an Alloy Forms Kit.
The upper level will have 46 of the Woodland Scenics 6" to 8" TR1006 Pines. I have pre-installed all of the tree bases and will simply plug the tall trees in their bases after I have reinstalled the section on my layout. It will require quite a bit of scenery blending on all four sides and the tall trees would be in the way, another good reason for making trees removable.
This has been a very satisfying project. I knew it would take a lot of time and sometimes hard work to repair my damaged module but it was worth every minute it took. I dreaded doing it for several years but now it looks great.
Rabu, 14 Ogos 2013
August 13, 2013 My new MDC/Roundhouse 0-6-0
Way back in the fall of 1952 I bought my first HO Locomotive, is was a MDC/Model Roundhouse 0-6-0 Switch Engine Kit, I still have it and it is still in prefect condition. I was cruising E-Bay and saw a New Unopened Kit from 1953, I bid on it and won. It cost a bit more than the $6.85 my original engine cost in 1952. Actually I was very happy just finding it.
The kit went together very nicely.
I took my time building this kit and it turned out fantastic. My original engine operates on 12 volt DC, I wired this one for DCC and installed a decoder in the tender. Both the original and this kit came with sloped back tenders, I found a used Vanderbilt tender on E-Bay and bought it to go with the new engine. I grew up in El Paso Texas and all the 0-6-0 switch engines had Vanderbilt tenders so I thought it appropriate for my layout too.
I installed connectors for a DCC decoder in both tenders so I could ues either tender behind this engine.
This tender was used and required a complete overhaul.
Because of the small size of the tenders and engine I mounted a male connector on each tender and used a female pigtail on the engine.
The original MDC motors are open frame, very powerful and only draw 800 ma. max so a one amp decoder works very good. I added several SP workers to this engine, they give it a more realistic look.
I referenced the SP Historical Site and found an El Paso roster from 1950 and assigned 1121 as the engine number.
This was like going back in time to my teenage years, I needed that.
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The kit went together very nicely.
I took my time building this kit and it turned out fantastic. My original engine operates on 12 volt DC, I wired this one for DCC and installed a decoder in the tender. Both the original and this kit came with sloped back tenders, I found a used Vanderbilt tender on E-Bay and bought it to go with the new engine. I grew up in El Paso Texas and all the 0-6-0 switch engines had Vanderbilt tenders so I thought it appropriate for my layout too.
I installed connectors for a DCC decoder in both tenders so I could ues either tender behind this engine.
This tender was used and required a complete overhaul.
Because of the small size of the tenders and engine I mounted a male connector on each tender and used a female pigtail on the engine.
The original MDC motors are open frame, very powerful and only draw 800 ma. max so a one amp decoder works very good. I added several SP workers to this engine, they give it a more realistic look.
I referenced the SP Historical Site and found an El Paso roster from 1950 and assigned 1121 as the engine number.
This was like going back in time to my teenage years, I needed that.
Ahad, 4 Ogos 2013
August 4, 2013 Another Sears Catalog Home
I finally received the hand railing I needed to finish my second scratch built house, the Sears 264B155 Catalog Home. The Grandt Line 5035 Turned Spindle Porch Railing finally arrived, it was on back-order for several months.
My post on the construction of the 264B155 house is on a Projects Page Click Here to go to the Another Sears Catalog Home Project.
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My post on the construction of the 264B155 house is on a Projects Page Click Here to go to the Another Sears Catalog Home Project.
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