Jumaat, 25 Oktober 2013
October 25, 2013 Blending in my modules
This post is work in progress, I'll add pictures and text as the project continues.
I successfully placed the module with the Superintendent's house and swimming pool on my layout. I have attached it and the 24" x 48" module in place with wood screws to prevent any possible warping from the Paper Mache caused by changes in temperature and humidity.
I have checked all the lighting circuits and everything is still working, both modules fit tight into the layout so there is a possibility of pinching wires. All the wiring moves easily so the wires are free from problems.
The next step is to seal the gaps around both modules. I was planning to use one inch strips of newspaper soaked in thinned Elmer's white glue for easy removal for future maintenance or remodels. But as I'm very happy with both modules and because I'm 76 years old I figure both will out live me so I'm going to seal the gaps with Paper Mache.
As one gets older it becomes harder to get around without pain or hurting yourself. To make working on my layout easier and without hurting my back from prolonged bending or leaning over I use my Topside Creeper. The creeper is the best tool investment I have ever made, my back and legs are very tender from a severe fall from a tower in 1965.
The creeper lets me work easily 3 feet into my layout. This particular position it lets me work to the center or 3� feet from the edge. Learning to work hanging down is a learning experience but it is comfortable and I can keep at it for long periods of time.
Topside type creepers are manufactured by several companies all comparatively priced, the big difference is S&H. I caught Micro-Mark in a weak 'Sale plus free S&H' moment several years ago and the delivered price was $197.95
October 26, 2013
I have started patching the gaps around the modules to blend into my layout. The picture above is the far right corner or east end of the modules. I had to trim the Plaster of Paris rock to the left of the road to make room for my new slightly wider gravel road. As you can see the original road was a narrow dirt road. I'll also need to add a bit more rock on both sides of the trestle and extend the planking between the rails for the wider road.
The trestle module needs to be removable because of track maintenance. I'm going to try the plastic wrap trick again to keep the gap very thin and hidden from view. After everything is fully dried I'll pull the plastic wrap out leaving only a micro thin line.
I'm still working on the far right end of the modules filling in and blending the gaps. I soaked some newspaper in thinned Elmer's white glue for a filler between the balsa and the rock on the module. The balsa base was installed with temporary Paper Mache/white glue until I was able to blend it into the surrounding scenery after I had the modules in place.
Because of the slow drying process of the Paper Mache I have to layer it in thin coats. I have a 6" fan blowing across the area almost 24/7 while I'm working with Paper Mache to speed up the drying.
November 4, 2013
I have sealed and blended the gaps around the rocks on the left, the right side, and the end of the Pool Module.
In the pictures below I have filled in the gaps between the removable modules and the main layout. I have applied a first layer of green grass flocking over a coating of Earth Undercoat on the Paper Mache.
November 6, 2013
I will need to make a filler rock to fill in the gap between the rocks above the gravel road.
I will need to install several rock castings to fill the openings between the rocks then do more flocking and add bushes.
The large hole above will be a complete rock building project in it's self.
This post is a work in progress, I will be adding pictures and text as I continue with this project.
Read More..
I successfully placed the module with the Superintendent's house and swimming pool on my layout. I have attached it and the 24" x 48" module in place with wood screws to prevent any possible warping from the Paper Mache caused by changes in temperature and humidity.
I have checked all the lighting circuits and everything is still working, both modules fit tight into the layout so there is a possibility of pinching wires. All the wiring moves easily so the wires are free from problems.
The next step is to seal the gaps around both modules. I was planning to use one inch strips of newspaper soaked in thinned Elmer's white glue for easy removal for future maintenance or remodels. But as I'm very happy with both modules and because I'm 76 years old I figure both will out live me so I'm going to seal the gaps with Paper Mache.
As one gets older it becomes harder to get around without pain or hurting yourself. To make working on my layout easier and without hurting my back from prolonged bending or leaning over I use my Topside Creeper. The creeper is the best tool investment I have ever made, my back and legs are very tender from a severe fall from a tower in 1965.
The creeper lets me work easily 3 feet into my layout. This particular position it lets me work to the center or 3� feet from the edge. Learning to work hanging down is a learning experience but it is comfortable and I can keep at it for long periods of time.
Topside type creepers are manufactured by several companies all comparatively priced, the big difference is S&H. I caught Micro-Mark in a weak 'Sale plus free S&H' moment several years ago and the delivered price was $197.95
October 26, 2013
I have started patching the gaps around the modules to blend into my layout. The picture above is the far right corner or east end of the modules. I had to trim the Plaster of Paris rock to the left of the road to make room for my new slightly wider gravel road. As you can see the original road was a narrow dirt road. I'll also need to add a bit more rock on both sides of the trestle and extend the planking between the rails for the wider road.
The trestle module needs to be removable because of track maintenance. I'm going to try the plastic wrap trick again to keep the gap very thin and hidden from view. After everything is fully dried I'll pull the plastic wrap out leaving only a micro thin line.
I'm still working on the far right end of the modules filling in and blending the gaps. I soaked some newspaper in thinned Elmer's white glue for a filler between the balsa and the rock on the module. The balsa base was installed with temporary Paper Mache/white glue until I was able to blend it into the surrounding scenery after I had the modules in place.
Because of the slow drying process of the Paper Mache I have to layer it in thin coats. I have a 6" fan blowing across the area almost 24/7 while I'm working with Paper Mache to speed up the drying.
November 4, 2013
I have sealed and blended the gaps around the rocks on the left, the right side, and the end of the Pool Module.
In the pictures below I have filled in the gaps between the removable modules and the main layout. I have applied a first layer of green grass flocking over a coating of Earth Undercoat on the Paper Mache.
November 6, 2013
I will need to make a filler rock to fill in the gap between the rocks above the gravel road.
I will need to install several rock castings to fill the openings between the rocks then do more flocking and add bushes.
The large hole above will be a complete rock building project in it's self.
This post is a work in progress, I will be adding pictures and text as I continue with this project.
Khamis, 17 Oktober 2013
October 17, 2013 Finishing My Swimming Pool Module
This project is long time coming, December of 2009 I built up a removable section for my layout using a Walthers Cornerstone Two Story House Kit and a scratch built swimming pool. I had problems with expansion and contraction in my garage because it was not insulated causing the Paper Mache base material to go berserk. I have since added R30 insulation and have a good handle on the temperature in the garage.
To make things more complicated over a period of several years the Woodland Scenics Real Water in the pool looked like it had evaporated and dried up into what looked like old floor wax buildup. Between the badly warped and cracked Paper Mache and the very disgusting looking pool water the module needed to be totally overhauled.
As all Model Railroaders know when you start a redo on any part of your layout it can and usually does get out of hand. This little remodel was very typical of that scenario, it got out of hand. The module sits on the side of Red Mountain close to the mountain cut of my helix, what better time to overhaul the cut. That required a new frame from the layout up to the track level to hold the new Hydrocal rocks and the new module with the swimming pool.
The construction of the frame, Hydrocal Rocks and the Swimming Pool Module are earlier post that can be viewed by scrolling down my Blog.
I decided to discard the Walthers plastic house on the swimming pool module in favor of one of my scratch built Catalog Homes so that meant starting over with a new and slightly larger module. All my plastic house kits look like plastic kits and my scratch built homes look much better.
The pictures below show the new module with the �" OSB base, the carved 1�" foam board covered with Paper Mache and flocked with Woodland Scenics Flocking.
I soaked the grass flocking with thinned white Elmer's glue and set the pool in place then set 4 one pound weights on the pool deck to press it into the flocking and Paper Mache. While the Magic Water Resin was curing I worked on the module adding the grass flocking and the fence, the Magic Water pouring and curing was a 5 day process. The 6�' high scale fence is made up of ?" strips of Midwest HO scale flooring and Midwest Scale Lumber 2 x 4s.
The glue is dry and the weights have been removed leaving the pool with the grass looking good. The Woodland Scenics Fine Turf #T1345 really does look like grass.
I have replaced the streetlamp and powered up the lighting. The 12 volt lights are operating at 8� volts for increased life and a more realistic look.
This is a closeup with the ambient lighting reduced creating the setting for an evening at the pool. The under water lighting works much better than I expected, the Magic Water is fantastic. The Acrylic resin used by Unreal Details to make their Magic Water conducts the light so well that it looks like real water.
Things are coming along nicely, the underwater lights, the decorative yard light and the garage are on a separate switches from the house so that they can swim under moonlight. The following pictures are with the party going full blast.
1
I have placed the party figures in the grass by drilling a #61 or .039" hole for the straight pin for each figure. All of the figures are super glued to the head of a 1�" straight pin so that they can be easily moved around or removed for repainting. The furniture is also mounted on pins. As I'm basically still a Techno Wienie after 50 years working in electronics I make everything easily removed for future maintenance.
A medium sized Oak tree plugs into the brown washer looking thing in the lower left corner.
All of the young ladies on the pool deck are mounted on straight pins in .039" holes drilled in the styrene deck.
The figures in the water and the young lady on the spring board are factory painted Preiser people, the rest are hand painted by me using Crafters Acrylic paints with a 00 artist brush.
I had a request for some night pictures so I posted a few after I added a bit of scenery and party goers.
I plan to add more foliage clusters to the Oak tree next to the garage.
I kept the young boy standing on the barrel looking over the fence at the girls.
This is a better view of the Oak tree, as you can see it needs help. The pop bottles on the round table are 1/16" pieces of number 22 telephone frame wire.
The swimming pool looks very good with the underwater lights illuminating the swimmers. The pool party is in full swing.
This is a scratch built 1916 Sears Catalog home and garage, the home owner is the Superintendent of the Susanville Southern Pacific passenger terminal and maintenance yard. I built the house from plans I found on the Internet, the garage is my design. The Superintendent's house is located on Red Mountain Road.
I will add a dozen cars for the party goers including the Superintendent's wife's car and his Jaguar in the garage and his Lincoln just outside the open door.
The picture above is a daylight view (flash) that shows the added foliage to the Oak tree.
Added October 22.2013
The following pictures complete this post. The module is finished and ready to install on my layout.
It took three months to complete this module.
It was a fun project even with all my problems with the Paper Mache. Paper Mache is very difficult to work with but I still prefer it over Plaster of Paris for basic ground work. It is very strong yet pliable, accepts all types of paint and wood glue works great on it.
I still need to attach the power drop to the house so I will bring the adjoining module in to my hobby room to do that then install both on my layout and seal the edges with �" newspaper strips soaked in thinned Elmer's white glue.
The redhead is working on the grill while the girl in black serves refreshments.
As the white glue is drying I'll cover it with flocking to blend the modules together.
These final pictures show the module grass, bushes, trees and details close up.
The pool turned out fantastic and it goes great with my scratch built houses, there are four more houses on the adjoining module. All five houses are built from floor plans obtained from the Antique Homes Style Site of the 1920's and 30's era.
.
There are hundreds of floor plans from the early 1900s to the 1950's on their site. I chose the 20's era for my layout, I built 8 of the Catalog Homes.
The only thing left to do on both modules is to add some parked cars from the 50's. I have about 40 cars but all have headlights and I will keep them for operation on roads and highways.
The left gate scale 4" x 4" post is dropped in a hole so that it will swivel open and close.
This concludes this post, I will start a new post after I have placed both modules on my layout showing the sealing process of the joint gaps.
Read More..
To make things more complicated over a period of several years the Woodland Scenics Real Water in the pool looked like it had evaporated and dried up into what looked like old floor wax buildup. Between the badly warped and cracked Paper Mache and the very disgusting looking pool water the module needed to be totally overhauled.
As all Model Railroaders know when you start a redo on any part of your layout it can and usually does get out of hand. This little remodel was very typical of that scenario, it got out of hand. The module sits on the side of Red Mountain close to the mountain cut of my helix, what better time to overhaul the cut. That required a new frame from the layout up to the track level to hold the new Hydrocal rocks and the new module with the swimming pool.
The construction of the frame, Hydrocal Rocks and the Swimming Pool Module are earlier post that can be viewed by scrolling down my Blog.
I decided to discard the Walthers plastic house on the swimming pool module in favor of one of my scratch built Catalog Homes so that meant starting over with a new and slightly larger module. All my plastic house kits look like plastic kits and my scratch built homes look much better.
The pictures below show the new module with the �" OSB base, the carved 1�" foam board covered with Paper Mache and flocked with Woodland Scenics Flocking.
I soaked the grass flocking with thinned white Elmer's glue and set the pool in place then set 4 one pound weights on the pool deck to press it into the flocking and Paper Mache. While the Magic Water Resin was curing I worked on the module adding the grass flocking and the fence, the Magic Water pouring and curing was a 5 day process. The 6�' high scale fence is made up of ?" strips of Midwest HO scale flooring and Midwest Scale Lumber 2 x 4s.
The glue is dry and the weights have been removed leaving the pool with the grass looking good. The Woodland Scenics Fine Turf #T1345 really does look like grass.
I have replaced the streetlamp and powered up the lighting. The 12 volt lights are operating at 8� volts for increased life and a more realistic look.
This is a closeup with the ambient lighting reduced creating the setting for an evening at the pool. The under water lighting works much better than I expected, the Magic Water is fantastic. The Acrylic resin used by Unreal Details to make their Magic Water conducts the light so well that it looks like real water.
Things are coming along nicely, the underwater lights, the decorative yard light and the garage are on a separate switches from the house so that they can swim under moonlight. The following pictures are with the party going full blast.
1
I have placed the party figures in the grass by drilling a #61 or .039" hole for the straight pin for each figure. All of the figures are super glued to the head of a 1�" straight pin so that they can be easily moved around or removed for repainting. The furniture is also mounted on pins. As I'm basically still a Techno Wienie after 50 years working in electronics I make everything easily removed for future maintenance.
A medium sized Oak tree plugs into the brown washer looking thing in the lower left corner.
All of the young ladies on the pool deck are mounted on straight pins in .039" holes drilled in the styrene deck.
The figures in the water and the young lady on the spring board are factory painted Preiser people, the rest are hand painted by me using Crafters Acrylic paints with a 00 artist brush.
I had a request for some night pictures so I posted a few after I added a bit of scenery and party goers.
I plan to add more foliage clusters to the Oak tree next to the garage.
I kept the young boy standing on the barrel looking over the fence at the girls.
This is a better view of the Oak tree, as you can see it needs help. The pop bottles on the round table are 1/16" pieces of number 22 telephone frame wire.
The swimming pool looks very good with the underwater lights illuminating the swimmers. The pool party is in full swing.
This is a scratch built 1916 Sears Catalog home and garage, the home owner is the Superintendent of the Susanville Southern Pacific passenger terminal and maintenance yard. I built the house from plans I found on the Internet, the garage is my design. The Superintendent's house is located on Red Mountain Road.
I will add a dozen cars for the party goers including the Superintendent's wife's car and his Jaguar in the garage and his Lincoln just outside the open door.
The picture above is a daylight view (flash) that shows the added foliage to the Oak tree.
Added October 22.2013
The following pictures complete this post. The module is finished and ready to install on my layout.
It took three months to complete this module.
It was a fun project even with all my problems with the Paper Mache. Paper Mache is very difficult to work with but I still prefer it over Plaster of Paris for basic ground work. It is very strong yet pliable, accepts all types of paint and wood glue works great on it.
I still need to attach the power drop to the house so I will bring the adjoining module in to my hobby room to do that then install both on my layout and seal the edges with �" newspaper strips soaked in thinned Elmer's white glue.
The redhead is working on the grill while the girl in black serves refreshments.
As the white glue is drying I'll cover it with flocking to blend the modules together.
These final pictures show the module grass, bushes, trees and details close up.
The pool turned out fantastic and it goes great with my scratch built houses, there are four more houses on the adjoining module. All five houses are built from floor plans obtained from the Antique Homes Style Site of the 1920's and 30's era.
.
There are hundreds of floor plans from the early 1900s to the 1950's on their site. I chose the 20's era for my layout, I built 8 of the Catalog Homes.
The only thing left to do on both modules is to add some parked cars from the 50's. I have about 40 cars but all have headlights and I will keep them for operation on roads and highways.
The left gate scale 4" x 4" post is dropped in a hole so that it will swivel open and close.
This concludes this post, I will start a new post after I have placed both modules on my layout showing the sealing process of the joint gaps.
Sabtu, 12 Oktober 2013
October 12, 2013 Magic Water
Scroll down to view Updates
Back in December of 2009 I built up a small removable section for my layout using a Walthers Cornerstone Two Story House Kit and a scratch built swimming pool. Over a period of several years the Woodland Scenics Real Water in the pool evaporated and dried up into what looked like old floor wax buildup. It was time to do a total remodel.
After a week of research on Model Railroad Forums I found out that I wasn't alone, there were many posts about Realistic Water . . . . all bad.
In searching the Forums, Magic Water from Unreal Details was the favorite by far so I went for it and this post is about my New Pool Project.
Magic Water is available in three sizes, Jumbo Size 96 oz., Magic Water 18 oz. and Miniaturists 6 oz. I chose the 6 oz. because my swimming pool is small.
I prepared the pool for Magic Water by measuring the amount of liquid needed to make my first pour of ?" per the instructions. The instructions say to limit each pour to �" so to be on the safe side I'm doing ?" per pour. I lucked out because the amount needed to keep the pour to ?" is 15 mil so that made the 2 to 1 mix easy, 5 mil of 'A' Hardener and 10 mil of 'B' Resin. The instructions say Mix, Mix, Mix, and Mix Again so that is my plan.
I glued three ladies in the pool before the first pour using superglue. I have one more lady and two men actually posed in swim mode that I will float in the Magic Water when the pours have reached nearer to the top of the pool water level.
The pool is made from a plastic hardware box from Home Depot. They have several different sizes of boxes that wood screws come in so I had a good assortment of boxes to chose from. I used the box lid to make the bottom slope of the pool. The pool ladders are Athearn Caboose ladders painted with Folk Art Acrylic Silver.
For increased realism I installed six "under water" pool lights, the bulbs are 3mm 12 volt 70 ma. I removed a round spot of paint 1/16" (scaled 6") in diameter for the lights to illuminate the figures in the water.
I will add pictures of the pool as I continue with the Magic Water, it will take four to five pours with 24 hrs between pours per the instructions.
October 12th 11:30am First Pour
The first pour went well, I MIXED, MIXED and MIXED per instructions.
As we live in the lower San Joaquin Valley and have a constant breeze from the north we get all of the Bay Area SMOG here 24/7, as the SMOG dries it falls to the ground as a dirty brown gunk. It leaves a layer of fine gunk on everything so to protect my Magic Water in my swimming pool I put a cake cover over it until it cures. I will do this with each new layer of Magic Water.
Bakersfield is normally number one for worst SMOG in the US, thanks San Francisco.
October 13th 10:00 am Second Pour
So far so good, the Magic Water is working as advertised. I Mixed, Mixed and Mixed again as per instructions and it's looking very good. The next pour will cover the legs of the young lady in the red bikini and the feet of the other two.
October 14th 9:00 am Third pour
This is the third pour, so far so good. Everything is going very well. This pour was a bit over ?" leaving a little over an ?" for the last pour.
The last pour will have the three figures above in the water swimming. The Magic Water final level will be just above the shoulders of girl in the red bikini. The last pour will be tomorrow morning and I'm having a hard time waiting for this one to cure.
After trying to come up with a plan to suspend the three figures in the last pour I decided to do two pours. I will do a thin pour and place my swimmers in the Magic Water and let it cure over night then do a final pour that will sandwich the figures just under the surface. With the figures at surface level any capillary action of the Magic Water above the surface should appear as water motion of them swimming.
October 14th 9:00 pm Fourth Pour
This is pour number four with the three figures swimming imbedded in the Magic Water. I went with this pour at 16 hrs after pour three. With pour three not fully cured I was able to push two of the figures into the slightly soft pour to keep them at the correct angle for the last pour.
October 15th 8:00 am Final Pour
The last pour went very good, tomorrow I'll clean it up and do some finishing touch-ups and install the pool on my removable section. The Magic Water works fantastic and I've ended up with a great looking swimming pool. If all goes as planed it should look really good with the lighting on and the pool party in full swing.
It's only been 12 hrs since the final pour so the Magic Water isn't fully cured but I took pictures anyway.
The following pictures show my swimming pool with the proper water level and all the figures in place.
I will place the pool on the module in the morning and fill the gaps around the pool with flocking.
The Magic Water will be fully cured by 8:00 am.
My swimming pool is finally finished. The Magic Water is crystal clear and the pool looks fantastic. I'll start a new post shortly showing the pool in place on the module along with the pool party in action.
October 16th 9:00 am Waiting
Because of the SMOG gunk from the Bay Area I have decided to let the Magic Water cure an additional 24 hrs.
The Magic Water it terrific, it is crystal clear even though my close up pictures show it grainy.
I took a few close up shots to show the slight capillary action of the Magic Water as well as to showoff the detail of the Preiser figures. All the figures in the pool are factory painted as is from the package. The springboard is scratch built from K&S brass stock. The pool deck is 1/16" sheet styrene from Evergreen. The ladders are Athearn Caboose ladders painted with Folk Art Silver Acrylic craft paint. I normally use craft Acrylic pint for all my model railroad projects, they a much lower in cost and there are hundreds of colors to pick from. Another very good advantage of Acrylic paint is water cleanup. This will finish this post, I'll start a new post starting with placing the pool on the module.
Read More..
Back in December of 2009 I built up a small removable section for my layout using a Walthers Cornerstone Two Story House Kit and a scratch built swimming pool. Over a period of several years the Woodland Scenics Real Water in the pool evaporated and dried up into what looked like old floor wax buildup. It was time to do a total remodel.
After a week of research on Model Railroad Forums I found out that I wasn't alone, there were many posts about Realistic Water . . . . all bad.
In searching the Forums, Magic Water from Unreal Details was the favorite by far so I went for it and this post is about my New Pool Project.
Magic Water is available in three sizes, Jumbo Size 96 oz., Magic Water 18 oz. and Miniaturists 6 oz. I chose the 6 oz. because my swimming pool is small.
I prepared the pool for Magic Water by measuring the amount of liquid needed to make my first pour of ?" per the instructions. The instructions say to limit each pour to �" so to be on the safe side I'm doing ?" per pour. I lucked out because the amount needed to keep the pour to ?" is 15 mil so that made the 2 to 1 mix easy, 5 mil of 'A' Hardener and 10 mil of 'B' Resin. The instructions say Mix, Mix, Mix, and Mix Again so that is my plan.
I glued three ladies in the pool before the first pour using superglue. I have one more lady and two men actually posed in swim mode that I will float in the Magic Water when the pours have reached nearer to the top of the pool water level.
The pool is made from a plastic hardware box from Home Depot. They have several different sizes of boxes that wood screws come in so I had a good assortment of boxes to chose from. I used the box lid to make the bottom slope of the pool. The pool ladders are Athearn Caboose ladders painted with Folk Art Acrylic Silver.
For increased realism I installed six "under water" pool lights, the bulbs are 3mm 12 volt 70 ma. I removed a round spot of paint 1/16" (scaled 6") in diameter for the lights to illuminate the figures in the water.
I will add pictures of the pool as I continue with the Magic Water, it will take four to five pours with 24 hrs between pours per the instructions.
October 12th 11:30am First Pour
The first pour went well, I MIXED, MIXED and MIXED per instructions.
As we live in the lower San Joaquin Valley and have a constant breeze from the north we get all of the Bay Area SMOG here 24/7, as the SMOG dries it falls to the ground as a dirty brown gunk. It leaves a layer of fine gunk on everything so to protect my Magic Water in my swimming pool I put a cake cover over it until it cures. I will do this with each new layer of Magic Water.
Bakersfield is normally number one for worst SMOG in the US, thanks San Francisco.
October 13th 10:00 am Second Pour
So far so good, the Magic Water is working as advertised. I Mixed, Mixed and Mixed again as per instructions and it's looking very good. The next pour will cover the legs of the young lady in the red bikini and the feet of the other two.
October 14th 9:00 am Third pour
This is the third pour, so far so good. Everything is going very well. This pour was a bit over ?" leaving a little over an ?" for the last pour.
The last pour will have the three figures above in the water swimming. The Magic Water final level will be just above the shoulders of girl in the red bikini. The last pour will be tomorrow morning and I'm having a hard time waiting for this one to cure.
After trying to come up with a plan to suspend the three figures in the last pour I decided to do two pours. I will do a thin pour and place my swimmers in the Magic Water and let it cure over night then do a final pour that will sandwich the figures just under the surface. With the figures at surface level any capillary action of the Magic Water above the surface should appear as water motion of them swimming.
October 14th 9:00 pm Fourth Pour
This is pour number four with the three figures swimming imbedded in the Magic Water. I went with this pour at 16 hrs after pour three. With pour three not fully cured I was able to push two of the figures into the slightly soft pour to keep them at the correct angle for the last pour.
October 15th 8:00 am Final Pour
The last pour went very good, tomorrow I'll clean it up and do some finishing touch-ups and install the pool on my removable section. The Magic Water works fantastic and I've ended up with a great looking swimming pool. If all goes as planed it should look really good with the lighting on and the pool party in full swing.
It's only been 12 hrs since the final pour so the Magic Water isn't fully cured but I took pictures anyway.
The following pictures show my swimming pool with the proper water level and all the figures in place.
I will place the pool on the module in the morning and fill the gaps around the pool with flocking.
The Magic Water will be fully cured by 8:00 am.
My swimming pool is finally finished. The Magic Water is crystal clear and the pool looks fantastic. I'll start a new post shortly showing the pool in place on the module along with the pool party in action.
October 16th 9:00 am Waiting
Because of the SMOG gunk from the Bay Area I have decided to let the Magic Water cure an additional 24 hrs.
The Magic Water it terrific, it is crystal clear even though my close up pictures show it grainy.
I took a few close up shots to show the slight capillary action of the Magic Water as well as to showoff the detail of the Preiser figures. All the figures in the pool are factory painted as is from the package. The springboard is scratch built from K&S brass stock. The pool deck is 1/16" sheet styrene from Evergreen. The ladders are Athearn Caboose ladders painted with Folk Art Silver Acrylic craft paint. I normally use craft Acrylic pint for all my model railroad projects, they a much lower in cost and there are hundreds of colors to pick from. Another very good advantage of Acrylic paint is water cleanup. This will finish this post, I'll start a new post starting with placing the pool on the module.
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